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General Snake Care
The most common "pet" snakes are in the constrictor species; i.e., boas, pythons. But, one of the better ways to select a snake for a pet is to visit with someone who has one. Don't got to someone who "just" acquired a snake, but to someone who has raised one or more over a period of time. Pet stores are a good source for information but, as is the case with most pets, they are not the best place to purchase a snake.
Shop around and do some research. Locate a reputable snake breeder, preferably local. Ask questions about:
- types of snakes that make good pets
- length and weight that the adult will reach
- habitat requirements, including climate control
- eating requirements, as a baby and as an adult
- expected personality and temperament
Sincerely ask yourself:
- Why do I want a snake? -- "It's coo1!" is not the right answer.
- Do I have the time to care for a snake?
- Can I afford a snake -- build a habitat, food, vet, medicine?
- Am I squeamish about feeding a snake (live food)?
- Is there someone who will help me with the snake? (Especially important with larger snakes.)
If totally convinced (if you need to justify your decision you should probably not get a snake), then heed the following:
- Temperament. Boas are usually gentle and docile, but larger pythons can be a problem.
- Learn about feeding. It needs to be consistent. A hungry snake is looking for a meal, so cuddling prior to dinner may not be a good idea.
- Don't buy or get a snake from "the wild". Get one from a breeder (if you insist on a pet store, make sure you know the full background of the snake and breeder.)
- Try to determine is the salesperson is knowledgeable. If they don't "ring true" don't buy.
- Don't buy a poisonous snake.
- If you are at all hesitant, don't buy a snake!
Here's what you can expect once you get a snake:
- Food and Feeding
- Your snake should be eating dead prey (to prevent injury to the snake).
- Frozen and thawed food may be acceptable to your snake.
- If it won't eat dead prey, then feed it live prey that has been stunned.
- Prey must come from a reliable source (to prevent disease).
- Snakes usually are fed once a week, or once every other week.
- The feeding event itself can be dangerous, especially if that's the only time you interact with the snake (the snake may not distinguish what is food and what is you!)
- Don't overfeed!
- All snakes shed, some up to 8 times a year.
- The Habitat
- Climate control. Temperatures need to range between 80-85 during the day and 70-75 at night. Offer the snake a consistent place of heat -- where it can go when it needs to raise its body temperature.
- Enclosures should be solid. For viewing use "fish tank" glass or Plexiglas.
- Enclosures must be secure. Snakes can get very inventive when attempting to leave their enclosure.
- Use paper on the floor of the enclosure (unprinted). This facilitates cleaning, and won't hide parasites like gravel.
- Add tree limbs and other such objects.
- Lighting should be with an artificial ultraviolet light source, and supplied at up to 12 hours a day.
- Supply water at all times. The snake will use it for drinking as well as for soaking. Make the container large enough to accommodate the snake.
- Clean the enclosure at least every other week -- more frequently if required. Especially clean the water container.
More specific information will be included in forthcoming articles about specific types of snakes.
Other useful Links:
Reptile Knowledge. A reptile web site worth hissing about.
Herp Center. Herp Center is dedicated to providing its members with information pertaining to reptiles in a friendly, online community.
Snake Tracks - The Worlds Largest Snake Enthusiast Website. Visit our site for care sheets, species information, field herping information, breeding, captive care, and our extensive list of snake enthusiast forums.
About Snakes. A huge resource for those interested in snakes, as well as other exotic pets including lizards, turtles and tarantulas.
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