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I'm starting to get a clue why my original goldfish led such short lives. As my research moved into the tank maintenance and setup area it became fairly obvious that a simple glass bowl filled with tap water did not a good fish home make.
Of all the fundamental requirements for successfully maintaining a healthy environment for my colorful friends, water temperature ranks near the top. While lack of attention to the other fundamentals will lead to an unhealthy environment, lack of temperature control can lead to a funeral march within a few hours.
Fish hobbyists have moved from heating the tank externally, from below (which could result in a broiled fish dinner, or snack), to the current in-tank heating arrangements. The goal is to keep the tank at an even temperature regardless of the temperature outside the tank.
A freshwater tropical fish tank should have its temperature consistent at 75 to 78 degrees. Saltwater and speciality tanks may require higher temperatures (this is another one of the "complicated" areas, but the answers are available in the references given later in this article).
There seem to be three types of tank heaters -- fully submersible, partially submerged, and cable. All of these should be controlled by a thermostat.
A 100 watt heater should do the job for a 20-30 gallon, but it really depends on the temperature differential between the coldest outside temp, and the target tank temp. (5 watts per gallon is recommended.) The room I'll use has no draft, and is never more than 5-6 degrees cooler that my tank target range.
Before choosing my heater I read all of the specification sheets to find the size of heater that best fit my heating scenario (in my case a 100 watt, fully submersible heater by Tronic).
I learned two other precautionary pieces of advice. First, NEVER BUY A CHEAP HEATER! The tank could get very cold, or very hot if the heater or its controls should fail. Second, invest in a GOOD tank thermometer. Double check that your heater's controls are working properly.
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